The way I welcome back Spring and the return of the local farm produce is a New Orleans Lenten dish, green gumbo, or gumbo z’herbes (here’s my base recipe). The markets launch in the first of May, and suddenly, I’m able to cook from local produce.
Just as Louisiana strawberries come in in late […]
This is the secret to turkey gumbo. First, in a lot of ways, it’s just chicken gumbo, but there’s a strong flavored turkey thing going on that you need to be aware of to achieve balance, and, second, the meat can turn up stringy if you aren’t careful.
The way I deal with the […]
Turkey gumbo is my standard weekend post-Thanksgiving or Christmas production. It’s slightly tricky– turkey stock has a strong flavor that has to be accommodated in a way chicken or even seafood stock does not, and the turkey meat cannot stand any length of cooking in the stock without turning stringy.
A secondary issue with […]
A pleasant day of knocking around Breaux Bridge: Some fine zydeco from Leroy Thomas at brunch at Les Cafes Des Amis ( and two kinds of gumbo– with potato salad for adding, plus turtle soup, barbecue shrimp, and crab cakes. Here are two questions: First, neither the okra and shrimp gumbo nor the […]
Herbsaint has for quite some time been my favorite of the newish (that is, opened the last 20 or so years– in New Orleans, newness wears off more slowly) restaurants in New Orleans. The kitchen there is consistently creative at a very high level. Day before yesterday, my wife, daughter, and I had a […]
A walk through the Midtown Farmers Market Saturday virtually dictated the dinner menu for Sunday: The variety of greens meant I would make gumbo z’herbes or green gumbo. Between the range of what I could get at the farmers market (some from a prior week, most from Saturday), and trips to the vegetable stand […]