Tyler Cowen at Marginal Revolution states that perhaps the best barbecue in the world is at Lonnie Ray’s in Harrisburg, Missouri, about a half-hour from Columbia. He severely undercuts his credibility by noting that “The pulled pork was my favorite dish and I usually don’t like pulled pork much at all.” Huh? He eats a lot of barbecue and doesn’t like pulled pork? In comments there are the usual cries of dissenters who, although they haven’t eaten in Lonnie Ray’s, wish everyone to know their favorite is the ONE TRUE source of barbecue (I didn’t chime in with tales of Payne’s or B.E. Scott’s). In any event, one of the folks in comments announced that the ONE TRUE source is Leatha’s, outside Hattiesburg, Mississippi. I suppose I will have some opportunities to check it out in the next few months, and was interested to note that it gets universal acclaim on the internet (although from a limited number of observers). I’m curious what others think.
Lonnie Ray’s picture (at top) from its Facebook page, and Leatha’s pictures (the two below the main text of the post) from this Yelp page.
If what I hear is right, Leatha’s of Hattisburg is the old Leatha’s of Foxworth. First location was Old Foxworth James town Rd. Her home before Hattisburg and moving to the 98,35 Intersection in Foxworth. Not sure but I think the Foxworth location has closed.
I remember Leatha’s place west of Foxworth as a child my dad and mom would take us out to eat there. It was even delicious back then.
Yes, Leatha formerly of Foxworth. All of her bbq is formidable, but the beef ribs are in a class by themselves. Definitely worth the trip. A bonus is getting waited on by her daughter … I have seen her take orders from 8 at the table with not a single note, and she got every order right.
I would recommend trying a little place in Indianola called The Blue Biscuit before declaring the best BBQ anywhere. It is right across from the BB King Museum. Also, Hopson Commissary in Clarksdale should definitely be in the running.
Oh, Leatha’s is in Hattiesburg proper now? I recall having to drive halfway to Columbia, and eating in a room which was a good imitation of the fellowship hall in a small Baptist church.
All right, Anderson, so tell us how the food was. (I have the impression its on a highway outside Hattiesburg).
I’ve commented on Leatha’s before. Back in ’82 it was on the river in Columbia and mostly fed woodcutters. The portions are smaller now. It was and still is very good but For my money it’s not as good as the Shed in Gautier, although now that they’ve franchised the Shed operation I don’t know that it can properly compete for the crown. Isn’t there an implicit rule that the best BBQ joint in the world has to be unique and by definition singular?
I don’t know about the franchise bueiness, meanderline, but I will say I’ve had barbecue from the shed when it was traveling, and would not place it as particularly memorable.
There are two Payne’s, from two branches of the family. There’s no doubt which is the one you should go to…
Been to both Leatha’s and Shed many times (one in Gautier and one on Hwy 53 Gulfport). Both are great but different. Leatha’s is really really good barbeque. Shed uses as brown sugar base which is very good also but a little sweet. Both are great but for different reasons. I stopped at both if I am close to either.
Leatha Jackson, the original owner, sold the name and recipes to a businessman in Hattiesburg, who moved the restaurant to Highway 98. Leatha and family were apparently part of the deal because they moved with the restaurant and continued to run the kitchen and work the tables. Leatha had a stroke back in late 2009 and was still in rehab the last time I heard. Having eaten at Leatha’s original place (where we once had to evacuate in a heavy rain due to flooding) and the new place, I’m afraid quality is lower now than previously. Part of that is trying to scale up production to restaurant quantities. As a barbecue reviewer observed on another website, this last is the reason home-cooked barbecue always tastes better than what you get in a restaurant.
I honestly can’t remember the food — I like BBQ but do not pretend to be a connoisseur, as evidenced by the fact that my favorite-ever ribs were at Virgil’s, Times Square, NYC.
(If you are at the Dreamland in Mobile, they have a Virgil’s placemat framed & hung, which shows various BBQ spots in the South … the internet provides a poor photo of it. Worth a digital pic for future reference.)
I am originally from Columbia. Leatha’s was at its best when it was in the shack between the train tracks and the river. Her recipes and trade name were indeed purchased and moved to Hattiesburg, and she is now located next to an RV dealer on Highway 98. The sweet sauce is still amazing, but the BBQ has suffered a bit. It is still worth a trip.
Usually the Shed’s traveling show only serves their pulled pork sandwich, which – I agree – is nothing to write home about. It’s their ribs I’m crazy about, and yes, it is a sweet sauce, but I’m partial to sweet.